7: Embrace the mud on this easy causeway walk across Pilgrim’s Way
Holy Island (Lindisfarne) only accessible during low tide
Around One Hour Drive from Edinburgh
Easy 8.5km A→B walk, completely flat across Pilgrim’s Way on the causeway
It’s very muddy on Pilgrim’s Way, wear hiking boots or wellies.
You can return either by bus or walk
Getting to the Start
This walk starts on the cross-section between the Northumberland Coastal Path and the Lindisfarne/Holy Island causeway on the mainland, just outside the village of Beal. The best postcode for this starting point is TD15 2PB. If you’re driving, you’ll want to park the car at the causeway end. You’ll notice as you approach the causeway, there’s layby on the left with space for around seven cars. It’s about 100 metres before the weatherbeaten shed on stilts ahead of you! We were a little nervous parking here (hoping our car wouldn’t float away in high tide) but we were quickly joined by other cars and it was fine. You can see our car in the image below to give you an idea of the parking space.
The island is cut off from the mainland twice a day because of high tide. You must check safe crossing times before you set off on your trip. You can check times here.
It’s relatively easy to get here on public transport and should take you around 90 minutes from Edinburgh Waverly. You get a train to Berwick Upon Tweed. Then get the X18 Max Arriva North East bus. Stay on this for 22 stops and get off just after Hagerstown Holiday Park. The start of the walk is about 20 minutes from the bus stop.
Returning to the Start
The 477 Borders Bus will take you back to the mainland, after you’ve walked across Pilgrim’s Way. The timetable changes based on the tides and you can see the times here. The bus leaves from the car park on Green Lane.
Highlights
Pilgrim’s Way
Pilgrim’s way, signposted by poles, and refuges across the causeway is the best route to walk to the island. It should take around 90 minutes and you should only walk on a receding tide, barefoot or with waterproof shoes. Be prepared to get muddy legs. To determine the best time to walk across, find out the actual time of the lowest tide point and then start their walk 75 minutes before that. Use this website. The start of Pilgrim’s Way is around 100 metres up the road from the parking spot and just after the first road bridge/causeway refuge. The path has two elevated rescue boxes along the route. We climbed them both and it was a bit of excitement to keep the walk interesting!
Lindisfarne Harbour and Castle
As you walk from the village towards Lindisfarne Castle, you’ll see the harbour to your right. It has old upturned herring boats (now used as storage) and its a lovely place to get a feel for the island. You may also see a seal in the harbour!
Pilgrim’s Coffee House
We’ve really enjoyed coffee and cake from Pilgrim’s Coffee House, which is a family-run roasters on the island. It has outdoor seating in a secluded garden. The coffee is absolutely delicious.
Walk Description
Walk past the road bridge/causeway refuge at the start of the causeway. You’ll cross over a small river.
The Pilgrim’s Way is marked out by poles in the sand. After you’ve passed the refuge, look for the poles on your right and step down onto the sand. Follow the poles!
Parts of the walk can be muddy and wet. That’s all part of the adventure! You can choose to skirt around these areas or whip your shoes off and tramp right through them.
The end of Pilgrim’s Way is marked by a bench on the island. Holy Island village is only a 5 minute walk from here.
We spent some time exploring the castle, lighthouse, cafes, etc. We had planned to get the 477 bus back. In the end, we felt we had time to walk across the tarmac causeway back to the car. It was an easy(ish) walk. We just had to be aware of the traffic on the road. However, the bus is a good option too.
TOP TIPS
The walk across Pilgrim’s Way is fun to do barefoot. It will save you having wet, soggy boots as you wander around the island.
There’s a newly renovated lookout tower on the other side of the Priory. It’s free to enter and you get stunning 360 views of the island and surroundings.
